Fully Guided Tours Private Car
Delhi - Jaipur - Ranthambore - Chittorgarh - Udaipur - Jaisalmer - Jodhpur - Bharatpur - Agra - Delhi - Udaipur - Jawai - Delhi
On the granite hills of southern Rajasthan, leopards sleep in caves above village temples while shepherds in white tunics and red turbans walk their flocks along the paths below. Jawai is one of the rare places in the world where a big cat and a farming community share the same ground in near harmony, and it is the wild finale of the Palace on Wheels with Jawai Leopard Safari & Udaipur. Over thirteen nights, this itinerary pairs a week of royal sightseeing by train with two nights of lakeside luxury in Udaipur and two nights at a safari camp among the boulders.
The first week belongs to the Palace on Wheels, India's original luxury train, run by Rajasthan Tourism with Indian Railways. It loops out of Delhi through Jaipur, Ranthambore, Chittorgarh, Udaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Bharatpur, finishing with the Taj Mahal before rolling back into the capital. On this version we tell the train days from a practical and photographic angle: the best light at each monument, where to stand, what to wear and how to make the most of a schedule that moves at royal speed.
After the train, a flight takes you back to Udaipur, a city that deserves far more than the few hours the train allows. You stay two nights at a lake palace hotel, see the sunset from the Monsoon Palace and wander the old town at your own pace. Then a scenic drive brings you to Jawai, where morning and evening jeep safaris search for leopards on the rocks. All of it, from the train cabin and both flights to the hotels, the safari camp and each private car and guide, is organized by Top Indian Holidays, a family-run Jaipur operator with Ministry of Tourism approval and more than two decades in the business. The ideal season runs from October to March.
Whatever time your flight lands at Indira Gandhi International Airport, you will spot our representative beyond the exit doors with your name on a placard, ready to escort you to a cooled private car for the half-hour to 45-minute ride into the city and your luxury hotel. For early-morning arrivals we arrange check-in on landing, so you can go straight to bed after the long flight. The day is kept free, because a long wildlife and heritage trip is much more enjoyable when it starts with a good night of sleep and a gentle first meal.
If you feel energetic after lunch, a short private tour of New Delhi is easy to arrange. Humayun's Tomb, set in formal gardens with water channels, is a lovely place in late afternoon light and is a forerunner of the Taj Mahal you will see at the end of the train journey. Photographers will appreciate the warm red sandstone at that hour. Alternatively, a walk around India Gate and the broad avenues of Lutyens' Delhi gives a sense of the grand imperial capital built by the British in the twentieth century.
Toward evening, a colleague from our Delhi office drops by to deliver your paperwork and go over the two weeks to come. This is the moment to think about packing. For the train you will want comfortable walking shoes, a hat and sunscreen, plus a smart outfit for dinners. For Jawai, bring neutral colors such as khaki, olive and beige, a warm fleece and gloves for chilly dawn drives, and binoculars. A long camera lens of at least 300 millimeters is a real advantage when leopards are resting high on the rocks.
Enjoy a slow morning at the hotel, with a late breakfast and perhaps a swim. Keep your bags organized: the cabin on the Palace on Wheels is comfortable but compact, so it helps to keep a small daypack separate with camera, charger, passport and layers for the next day. After lunch and check-out, our driver takes you across Delhi to Safdarjung station, timing the drive to reach the platform for the 16:00 reporting time with some margin for traffic, which can be heavy in the afternoon.
At the station you are welcomed with garlands, traditional music and a cool drink. The train staff take your luggage to your cabin while you register with your passport. Before the train leaves, it is worth walking along the platform with your camera: the carriages are painted in a deep royal color and carry crests and names of former princely states, and in late afternoon light they make a handsome picture. Inside, each carriage has its own decor inspired by its namesake state, and your attendant introduces himself.
The train pulls out at 18:30 as the sun sets over Delhi. Charge your camera batteries and phones in the cabin tonight, because tomorrow's sightseeing in Jaipur is long and starts soon after breakfast. Dinner in the restaurant car offers a choice of Rajasthani and continental dishes, and the lounge bar is a relaxed place to meet fellow travelers. Many guests turn in early, letting the gentle rocking of the train carry them through the night to the Pink City, the first stop of the Palace on Wheels with Jawai Leopard Safari & Udaipur.
You wake in Jaipur, and the morning is the best time of day for photographs in the Pink City. After breakfast your guide begins at the Albert Hall Museum, whose pale domes and arches make a fine picture from the lawns of Ram Niwas Garden before the crowds arrive. Next, a stop in front of the Hawa Mahal: the facade faces east, so it is softly lit in the early morning. For the classic shot, look up from across the street or from a rooftop cafe opposite, which gives you the whole honeycomb of windows.
At Jantar Mantar, the giant instruments create strong geometric shadows that photographers love, and the guide explains how each one measured the sky. Next door in the City Palace, the Peacock Gate in the inner courtyard is best photographed straight on to capture its painted detail. Wear comfortable shoes with good grip, as there is a fair amount of walking on stone floors and uneven steps across the two sites. Keep your hat and water handy, because even in winter the sun becomes strong by noon in Jaipur.
The afternoon brings Amber Fort, about 11 kilometers north of the city. From the road below, the fort and its walls reflected in Maota Lake make a picture that most guests remember. Inside, the Mirror Palace is dim, so increase your camera sensitivity rather than using a flash, which is not permitted. Time is set aside in the old city markets, where the colors of textiles and spices are a gift for street photography; always ask before photographing people. The carriages roll out at 20:00, and dinner is served as you travel.
The train stops at Sawai Madhopur at about 04:45, and you set out for your morning safari in Ranthambore National Park. In midwinter the gates open near 07:00 and vehicles return by about 10:30; in October, February and March everything shifts half an hour earlier. Dawn temperatures in winter can drop to 6 to 9 degrees Celsius, and an open vehicle adds wind chill, so wear a warm jacket, hat and gloves. Keep your camera in a soft bag on your lap, as the tracks are dusty and bumpy.
Tigers can appear at any moment, so keep your settings ready, with a fast shutter speed and continuous focus. The light in the first hour is soft and golden, perfect for photographing large brown deer at the lakes or a crocodile basking on the bank. Sightings depend on luck, but the landscape, with ruined pavilions, ancient banyan trees and the fort walls on the hill, gives you good pictures on every drive. Back on the train, a late breakfast is served and there is time to rest and review your images.
By mid-afternoon the train reaches Chittorgarh, and you arrive at Chittorgarh Fort as the light begins to soften, the best time for photography on the plateau. Your guide leads you to the Tower of Victory, whose carved surfaces are full of detail, and to the palace associated with Queen Padmini, which stands beside a pool. From the walls the view stretches across the plains in a warm late glow. After sunset you watch the sound and light show, before returning to the train for dinner in the restaurant car.
The train arrives in Udaipur at about 07:00, and today's visit is a short first look at the city, since you return for two full days at the end of the train journey. The program starts at Saheliyon Ki Bari, a royal garden with lotus pools, marble elephants and fountains, which looks its best in soft morning light. Look for the reflections of the black marble kiosks in the central pool, and for the bougainvillea that tumbles over the old walls in the dry season.
Next comes the City Palace of Udaipur, the largest palace in Rajasthan. Inside, the courtyards and rooms are decorated with colored glass windows and peacock mosaics, and the upper terraces give views across Lake Pichola. The Crystal Gallery houses a collection of nineteenth-century crystal furniture from England. Photography rules vary inside the palace, so check with your guide. Use the visit to note places you want to return to later in the trip, when you will have more time, a private guide and the freedom to linger where you like.
The morning ends on Lake Pichola, where a launch carries you out past the long white facade of the City Palace, the floating Lake Palace and the island of Jag Mandir, and the reflections on a calm day are lovely. Sit on the side of the boat facing the palace for the best photographs, and keep a polarizing filter handy to cut glare. After lunch on board, the train departs at 16:00 for the long overnight journey west to Jaisalmer, and you have a quiet evening ahead with dinner in the restaurant car.
At about 08:30 the train reaches Jaisalmer. You begin at Gadisar Lake, where the carved gateway and pavilions reflect beautifully in the still water of early morning. It is a good spot for wide pictures, and also for birds such as cormorants and pelicans. The lake once supplied water for the entire city, and the shrines along its banks are still used by local people. Wear a scarf or light covering and carry water, as the desert sun quickly becomes strong after mid-morning, even in winter.
Next you climb into Jaisalmer Fort, where families still live, trade and pray within the old ramparts. The narrow lanes are full of character and photo opportunities: carved doorways, painted walls and small courtyards. Your guide shows you the palace and the Jain temples with their delicate carved pillars. Then come two of the finest merchant mansions, Patwon Ki Haveli and Nathmal Ji Ki Haveli, whose facades are covered with stone lattice. Mid-morning light brings out the texture of the carving well, and a wide-angle lens helps in the tight lanes.
In the late afternoon you drive to the dunes of the Thar Desert for a camel ride. Sunset is the magic hour here: the dunes turn gold and then orange, and the long shadows of the camels create strong images. Protect your camera from sand with a plastic bag or cover, and avoid changing lenses outdoors in the wind. Dinner is at a five-star hotel in Jaisalmer, often with folk music. The night sky over the desert is dark and clear, perfect for star photography if you have a small tripod. Around 23:00 the train slips away toward Jodhpur.
The train arrives at Mandore station, near Jodhpur, at about 07:00. Your first visit is to Mehrangarh Fort, which rises on a cliff above the old city. From its ramparts you look down on the blue-painted houses below, and the morning light from the east gives a clear and colorful view. The museum inside is excellent, with royal palanquins, elephant seats, paintings and arms, and the palace rooms have beautiful stained glass and mirror work. Allow time for photographs at the courtyards and the cannon on the walls.
Next comes Jaswant Thada, built in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II and set on a rocky slope with a small lake below. The marble is so thin that light glows through it, and the view from here back to Mehrangarh is one of the best in Jodhpur. It is a peaceful spot where you can take your time. Look for the small birds and lizards in the garden, and the reflections of the memorial in the water on a still morning. The marble is also warm and luminous in photographs.
The final visit is to the museum at Umaid Bhawan Palace, one of the largest private residences in the world, completed in the twentieth century. The building is part royal residence, part luxury hotel and part museum, with displays of clocks, photographs and vintage cars. Its Art Deco design, with a great central dome and clean geometric lines, makes for interesting architectural photographs. The train departs from Jodhpur at 16:30 and heads east overnight toward Bharatpur, and you can enjoy dinner on board while your camera batteries charge in the cabin.
At about 05:00 the train arrives at Bharatpur, and after early tea you enter Keoladeo National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a paradise for birdwatchers and photographers. In winter the wetlands are filled with migratory ducks, geese and waders, alongside painted storks and herons nesting in the trees. You move through the park quietly in cycle-carts with naturalists who know exactly where to find owls, kingfishers and other species. A lens of 300 millimeters or longer is very useful here, and a beanbag helps steady it on the cart.
The train continues to Agra, arriving at about 11:00. You visit Agra Fort, a huge red sandstone fortress built by the Mughal emperors, with white marble pavilions and terraces overlooking the Yamuna River. From the octagonal tower, you get a distant view of the Taj Mahal along the river, a classic photograph framed by marble arches. Your guide also points out the Diwan-i-Khas, the hall of private audience, and the courtyards of the women's quarters. Lunch is at a hotel in the city, with time to rest and prepare for the afternoon visit.
Later in the day comes the Taj Mahal, whose white marble changes color with the light, from bright white at midday to warm gold as the sun lowers. Walk past the central pool and take photographs from the side of the gardens, where the crowds are thinner. Tripods are not allowed, and photography inside the tomb chamber is prohibited. Fridays are a closing day at the Taj, so the schedule avoids them. Once back aboard you sit down to the farewell dinner, and at 20:45 the train begins its night ride to the capital.
Safdarjung comes into view at roughly 02:30, though no one wakes you, and breakfast is served in the restaurant car later in the morning. Cabins must be vacated by 07:30, after which a driver gathers your luggage and heads for the domestic terminal at Delhi airport and the ninety-minute hop back to Udaipur, a pleasant flight over the plains. At the other end, our representative meets you and the drive to the city takes about 30 to 40 minutes, passing through green hills, marble quarries and small villages with whitewashed temples.
Your home for the next two nights is a lake palace hotel in Udaipur, a former royal residence on or beside Lake Pichola. Many of these hotels are reached by boat, and arriving across the water to the palace steps is a memorable moment. After check-in, take time to relax in your room or by the pool, enjoying the view across the lake to the City Palace and the old town. After a week of early starts, a slow afternoon here is a pleasant change.
In the late afternoon, you have a private boat ride on Lake Pichola, timed for sunset when the palaces glow gold and then pink. The boat passes the bathing steps, the island of Jag Mandir and the long facade of the City Palace, and the lake is calm and quiet at this hour. Return to your hotel for dinner, perhaps on a terrace overlooking the water, with the lights of the city reflected in the lake. This is one of the most romantic settings in India.
After breakfast, your private guide takes you into the old city of Udaipur. Begin at the Jagdish Temple, built in the seventeenth century and still an active place of worship, where you climb steep steps to a courtyard with carved walls and a black stone image of Vishnu. From there, walk through the narrow lanes toward the lake, past small shops selling miniature paintings, silver jewelry and textiles. This is a good time to visit a painting school, where artists use fine brushes made of squirrel hair.
Late morning, visit the Vintage Car Collection, which displays the classic cars of the Mewar royal family, including Rolls-Royces and a Cadillac, in an old garage of the palace. Then return to your hotel for lunch and a rest during the warmest hours. Alternatively, ask your guide to take you to the royal cenotaphs at Ahar, a peaceful site on the edge of the city with dozens of white domed monuments to the rulers of Mewar, which few visitors see and which is especially photogenic in the soft light of late morning.
In the late afternoon, drive up to Sajjangarh, better known as the Monsoon Palace, perched on a ridge a short drive west of the city center. It was built in the late nineteenth century to watch the monsoon clouds, and from its terraces you see the lakes, the city and the Aravalli Hills spread out below. Sunset is the most popular time, so arrive early. In the evening, you can attend a folk dance show in an old mansion near the lake, featuring traditional Rajasthani dances, puppet shows and music.
After breakfast, check out of your lake palace and set off with your driver for Jawai. The road climbs through the Aravalli Hills, past fields, villages and forest. The direct route takes about three hours, but we break the journey at Ranakpur, about two and a half hours from Udaipur, to visit the great Jain temple. Raised by Jain merchants in the fifteenth century and faced in pale marble, it rests on more than 1,400 carved pillars, no two of them alike. Non-Jain visitors are usually admitted from about 12:00 to 17:00.
Inside the temple, remove your shoes and any leather items, which are not allowed, and walk slowly among the pillars, where the light changes as it falls through openings in the domed roof. The carving is extraordinarily fine, especially on the ceilings and in the sculptures of the temple's main shrine. Your guide explains the beliefs of Jainism and the importance of this temple for the community. After the visit, enjoy a simple vegetarian lunch nearby, then continue the drive to Jawai, about one and a half to two hours away.
You reach your safari camp in Jawai in the afternoon, surrounded by a dramatic landscape of granite hills, boulder fields and scrub. Luxury tents here have private bathrooms, wide verandas and views over the rocks. After a short rest and tea, you head out for your first leopard safari in an open jeep. In winter the evening safari runs from about 15:30 to 18:30. As the light softens, your naturalist scans the rocks for leopards emerging from their caves to sun themselves or to start hunting.
Wake before dawn for a morning safari, which in winter runs from about 06:00 to 09:00. Dress warmly in layers, as the air is cool and the jeep is open. The Jawai leopard safari is different from a safari in a national park: there are no fences, and the leopards live among the rocks close to villages, temples and fields. The naturalists scan the hills with binoculars for a spotted shape on a ledge or in a cave entrance. The first light on the granite is golden and perfect for photographs.
After the safari, return to the camp for breakfast, then spend the late morning on a visit to a nearby village with a guide from the camp. The herding families of Jawai, known as Rabaris, have lived alongside leopards for generations. Many are devotees of Shiva, and they regard the leopards with respect, accepting the occasional loss of a goat rather than retaliating. Meeting them, and seeing their simple homes and their camels, sheep and goats, gives you an insight into this unique coexistence. Always ask before taking pictures of people.
In the afternoon, you can visit Jawai Dam, the largest reservoir in western Rajasthan, built in the mid-twentieth century. In winter it attracts migratory birds such as flamingos, ruddy shelducks and bar-headed geese, and large crocodiles bask on the sandy banks in the midday sun. Then it is time for your last evening safari, with another chance to see leopards as they wake up and start moving. Many camps end the day with a sundowner on a rocky hilltop, followed by dinner under the stars around a fire.
If you wish, you can take one final short morning safari before breakfast, depending on your flight time; otherwise, enjoy a relaxed breakfast at the camp. After check-out, our driver takes you to Udaipur airport, about two and a half to three hours away, or to Jodhpur airport, about three hours away, depending on which has the better flight connection to Delhi. The drive passes through rural landscapes, with rocky hills and small villages, offering a final look at the Rajasthan countryside and its herders on the move.
The flight from Udaipur or Jodhpur to Delhi takes about one hour and fifteen minutes. On arrival in Delhi, our representative meets you and takes you to your hotel, which we choose near the airport or in central Delhi depending on your onward flight. The rest of the day is free to rest, pack and enjoy a last evening in India. If you have time, a visit to a craft market such as Dilli Haat or a shopping street like Khan Market is a good way to pick up last-minute gifts.
In the evening, a farewell dinner is a perfect way to close the trip. The capital's dining scene ranges from grand North Indian kitchens to inventive modern tasting menus, and it is among the finest in the country. Our team can recommend and reserve a table. Over dinner, look back on two remarkable weeks: the royal palaces and forts of Rajasthan, seen from the luxury of a historic train, the tranquil lakes of Udaipur, and the wild leopards of Jawai, living freely among the granite hills of southern Rajasthan.
The last day starts with a leisurely breakfast at the hotel and no fixed program at all. Because long-haul departures for Europe and North America usually leave close to midnight or before dawn, so we can arrange a late check-out or a day-use room if needed. Use the time to rest, pack carefully and back up your photographs, as you will likely have thousands of images from the trip, from desert dunes and royal palaces to leopards and wetland birds. A portable drive is worth packing for this.
Our driver collects you at the agreed time, usually about four hours before departure, and heads for Indira Gandhi International Airport. Expect half an hour to 45 minutes from the city center, or more when the evening rush builds. Allow about three hours before an international departure, as there are document checks at the terminal entrance, airline check-in queues, security and immigration. Our representative helps with your luggage to the terminal door, which only passengers with a ticket may enter, and checks that nothing has been left in the car.
Right up to check-in, someone at Top Indian Holidays, the independent Jaipur company that put this trip together, will answer your call at any hour. We hope the Palace on Wheels with Jawai Leopard Safari & Udaipur has given you a rich mix of history, luxury and wildlife, and a fresh view of Rajasthan beyond its famous monuments. If you would like to return to India, perhaps for tigers in central India or the backwaters of Kerala, we will be delighted to arrange your next journey with the same care, private guides and attention to detail.
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